Taste Test: We Tried (Almost) Every Bread at Breadshop in Kaimukī
Ready. Set. Dough!
PHOTO: DAVID CROXFORD
For this month’s installment of our Ranked series, in which we try everything on the menu at a local establishment, we followed the intoxicating aroma of buttery, toasty deliciousness to Breadshop, a little slice of bread heaven tucked away on a quiet side street in Kaimukī, aka our go-to when we want that good, good oven.
On any given day you can spot a line spilling out of grain guru Chris Sy’s tiny bakery, and for good reason. The bread is baked fresh daily and is made completely by hand. The small batches are only sold the day they’re made, so fans know to get there early if they wanna satisfy their lust for crust.
The lineup can change daily, so we popped in two days in row to snag as many of the staple loaves as possible. Read on for our list of the loaves you knead to try.
The Rankers:
Stacey: “I love the tenderness of sweetbread: Ani’s smeared with butter and guava jelly is the OG on-the-go breakfast sandwich. Crusty mini baguettes for my homemade banh mi sammies fills my carb craving. And, I swoon, then jump over the moon, for popovers.”
Brie: “My fridge is always stocked with either sourdough (my all-time fave) or rye for my daily breakfast toasts. And my first job ever was working the register at a Japanese-French bakery, so, of course, I developed an affinity for fluffy Japanese milk bread and French bread in all its forms—bring me a bacon epi and I’ll love you for life!”
7. Rye, $8.50
PHOTO: DAVID CROXFORD
Stacey Makiya: I don’t usually like rye, but I might change my mind after this. (takes a bite) Ok noooo, it tastes like stale beer.
Brie Thalmann: I love rye and I like the flavor, but the texture is throwing me off.
SM: It has the texture of overcooked oatmeal: crumbly, mealy and gummy.
BT: Yeah, it is kinda gummy, which is making it hard to eat.
SM: This was my yeast favorite.
6. Country (Brown Sourdough), $8.50
COUNTRY (LEFT) and CITY (RIGHT).
PHOTO: DAVID CROXFORD
SM: It’s like The Rock—Dwayne Johnson, not Alcatraz—hard on the outside, but a softy on the inside. Its tangy bite is too much for me.
BT: I like the tanginess. It puts the sour in sourdough!
SEE ALSO: We Tried Every Sandwich on the Menu at Earl Kaka‘ako and Ranked Them
5. Focaccia, $8.50
PHOTO: DAVID CROXFORD
BT: I usually hate focaccia—it’s always so dry and heavy to me. But this is totally different. It’s way lighter and softer than any other I’ve had before, and much more buttery. This is a focaccia I can get behind.
SM: See, I’m the opposite. I thought I would love this the most, but it doesn’t wow me. The other breads had more personality—more FLAVAH!
BT: It’s simplicity would make it great for sandwiches—it would be tasty but would let the fillings shine. It’s actually kind of addictive, I could eat this whole loaf with some wine and a balsamic dip.
4. City (White Sourdough), $8.50
BT: Ooh, excellent crust, crunchy.
SM: It’s nice and airy on the inside. And much less tangy than the brown sourdough, which I like.
BT: This is perfect for dunking in a soup or sopping up a sauce.
SM: Mmm, or stew. Or for grilled cheese sandwiches. I’m getting hungry.
3. Green Olive Slab (Ciabatta), $9.50
PHOTO: BRIE THALMANN
BT: I love green olives, so of course I love this. They also make a version without green olives.
SM: The actual bread flavor is simpler than the others.
BT: And it’s the airiest of all the breads we’ve tried. The olives are definitely the star.
SM: When you hit an olive, it’s like finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow!
SEE ALSO: I Ate Every Dish on the Menu at Rangoon Burmese Kitchen
2. Semolina (Sourdough with Sesame Seeds and Honey), $9.50
PHOTO: BRIE THALMANN
SM: I don’t really taste the honey.
BT: Me either; it’s not overt, but it adds a mild sweetness. I really like it!
SM: (takes a few more bites) You’re right. There is a hint of the honey and it’s less sour than the other sourdoughs. Love the sesame seeds on top. Adds a nutty earthiness. The texture is pillowy with a good amount of chewiness.
1. Brioche, $8.50
PHOTO: DAVID CROXFORD
BT: OMG it smells ah-maz-ing.
SM: Yum, it’s like a soft, chewy loaf of buttery goodness. No need anything else, like jam or honey. It’s so fluffy … and cloudy.
BT: Cloudy?
SM: Hahaha, you know, like a cloud!
BT: It’s got the richness of a croissant but it’s so light. This would make awesome French toast—I know Kaimukī Superette uses it for theirs.
SM: Or bread pudding.
BT: This one takes the bake!
Breadshop, 3408 Waiʻalae Ave., open Thursday through Sunday. Reservations are released every Tuesday morning. Online orders only on Tock. breadsbybreadshop.com
