Something new: Thai Lao Pearl City

Fried fish with chili sauce. Photo credit: Grant Shindo

Growing up on Kauai, I wasn’t really into ethnic foods. When I say ethnic, I mean that aside from Kountry Kitchen, Bull Shed, Dukes, the always popular Kintaro and the traditional Chinese restaurant, I wasn’t all that diverse in my childhood culinary adventures. The first time my mom took me to eat Thai food was Christmas Day and we were going to watch Titanic. I had spring rolls and loved it. After moving to Honolulu, the chance to seek out new and tasty dishes from places like Vietnam, Korea, Mexico, Greece, India and more opened up to me.

But I had never had Lao cuisine before a new restaurant in Pearl City opened in February serving a combination of Thai, Vietnamese and Laotian dishes. Thai Lao Pearl City is from the same family that owns Thai Lao in Kapolei and also Fort Street Cafe in downtown Honolulu (which is hands-down my favorite place for Panang curry, garlic chicken and pad thai). So I was happy to be invited to experience authentic Laotian food.

Influenced by French, Japanese, Thai and Chinese cooking, Lao food is different from other Southeast Asian cuisines. The flavors are very earthy, with a lot of spices, herbs, chili and fish sauce. Sticky rice is a staple, but the combination of fresh vegetables with noodles, fish, meats and earthy seasonings is unique and perhaps an acquired taste if you’re not used to it.

Here’s a look at some of the dishes on the diverse menu:

Beef jerky – homemade, deep-fried and served on a bed of cabbage. This was a totally different take on jerky with flavors of chili and lemongrass, so delicious.

Beef salad – tossed with tomatoes, lime juice, chiles, mint & cucumber. Refreshing, with great flavors and a good combination of crunch and chew. One of my favorites from the meal. Photo credit: Grant Shindo

Fried chicken with sweet and sour dipping sauce. Everyone loved this as the chicken was perfectly cooked and nice and crispy.

Spicy pork sausage – I didn’t realize how spicy these were until I ate them as leftovers the next day. Delicious homemade sausages with chili and spices.

Pad ki mao (Drunkard’s Noodle, also Thai) – stir-fried noodles with broccoli, fresh basil, chiles and garlic. The garlic is not overpowering and the flavors are rich and delicious, I couldn’t stop eating this… not sure if that has anything to do with its nickname. LOL

Caramelized catfish in a clay pot (also Vietnamese) – one of the signature dishes the fish is served in a caramelized fish sauce with scallions and chiles. I know this is a standout dish for many from the region. The sauce is very earthy, sweet and savory. It was full of deep and intense flavors. For many familiar with this type of dish it is often their favorite and reminds them of home, for me this was a bit too much flavor, but still very unique and a beautiful presentation.

Last but certainly not least, the house special – pia rad prik: deep-fried whole fish topped with tangy sauce, bell peppers and onions. This was my absolute favorite. I would love to get my hands dirty eating this again! The crunch from the fish with the tangy sauce and garlic was a great combination. Perfectly cooked and overloaded with veggies and delicious sauce.

Thai Lao Pearl City is in the former Souvaly Thai Cuisine spot. I would definitely order some of the traditional Lao dishes along with some Lao-inspired eats, but my heart remains with the Thai curries and treats that I have come to love.

Oh, and they don’t sell any alcohol so feel free to BYOB!

Thai Lao Pearl City
803 Kamehameha Highway, Suite 203
Pearl City, HI 96782
(808) 456-8088
11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.