Beefy Sandwiches and Grilled Meats Rule at Maui’s Fuego Argentinian Steakhouse
Plus, the golf course and West Maui Mountain views are gorgeous.
Photo: Gregg Hoshida
“Have you heard of Fuego steakhouse?” a colleague on Maui asked a couple of months ago. As my job often takes me to the neighbor islands on day trips that leave limited time to eat, I tend to dine at the same few places. But when I hear about the new Fuego Argentinian Steakhouse in Kahului, I have to give it a try.
Located at The Dunes at Maui Lani Golf Course, Fuego is a departure from most 19th hole eateries. An open-air lanai accounts for over half of the dining area, with a beautiful view of the course and its dramatic backdrop of ‘Īao Valley and the West Maui mountains.
Photo: Gregg Hoshida
As the only eatery on the golf course, Fuego serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Breakfast looks pretty standard, with custom omelets ($12), a loco moco ($15), a breakfast burrito ($16) and eggs Benedict ($17). Lunch and dinner, when Argentina cuisine comes out to play, are what beckon me.
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At lunch, an assortment of emparedado (sandwiches) includes Choripan ($18), Milanesa de Carne ($17) and a Chicken Milanese ($17). My pick is the chopped flank steak sandwich ($19). A generous portion of seasoned steak and cheese is stuffed into a house-made sandwich roll, with fries and house-made chimichurri and sarza criolla relish on the side. This is a big sandwich—so big I end up cutting it into thirds, give a third to the table next to me that has been audibly drooling over my order and still leave full.
As good as the sandwich is, the highlight is clearly the chimichurri. Bright flavors with a slight kick of peppers provide the perfect accompaniment to the fattiness of the steak. Adding liberal doses continually refreshes my palate. A gallon of chimichurri to go, please.
Photo: Gregg Hoshida
For those not into sandwiches, the lunch menu also offers appetizers including empanadas and potato cakes stuffed with ham and cheese, as well as salads, meat dishes, pizzas and a make-your-own pasta station.
At dinner finally comes meat hot off the grill, which is what I expect from an Argentinian steakhouse. All the popular cuts are on the menu—tomahawk, ribeye, sirloin, skirt, plus lamb, chicken and so on. Meats are a la carte, and sides such as fries, mashed potatoes and sautéed mushrooms can be ordered separately. This day, I order the 14-ounce ribeye ($30), medium-rare, and an entrée size mixed salad ($12).
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The steak arrives looking thin and nowhere near the promised 14 ounces. My server, Tamera, comes to check on me and is equally perplexed. She asks me to cut into the meat; it is not medium-rare but an overcooked medium. She quickly takes it back and soon afterward a robust, thick, perfectly medium-rare steak arrives. Tamera returns and confirms that everything is to my liking. It is at this moment that I become a big fan of Fuego. This level of service is top-notch and consistent with what I see at other tables under her watch.
Photo: Gregg Hoshida
My new ribeye is well-seasoned and exudes beefy juices with each bite. Along with the view of rolling clouds cascading down ‘Īao Valley, it all adds up to a wonderful dining experience. I am too full for dessert, but next time, I will have the traditional tres leches or the rolled-crepe panqueque con dulce de leche ($12 each). And if that’s not enough, a small market as you exit the restaurant is filled with imported Argentinian snacks and drinks.
Fuego Argentinian Steakhouse is a wonderful new addition to Maui’s culinary landscape. With bold flavors and easy access to Kahului and Wailuku, this is a great place for a celebration, date night or a working lunch for a voracious eater like myself.
Open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., 1333 Maui Lani Parkway, (808) 633-4436, fuegosteakhousemaui.com, @fuegoargentiniansteakhouse
