‘Ahi, ‘Ahi, ‘Ahi, ‘Ahi, ‘Ahi, ‘Ahi, ‘Ahi, ‘Ahi: 8 Ways to Try ‘Ahi Sushi at Maguro-Ya

Photo: Martha Cheng

In the two decades since Maguro-Ya opened in Kaimukī, at least two other Japanese restaurants have opened in the neighborhood, and a slew of others across Honolulu. But Maguro-Ya is still the only to offer a sushi combination presenting a vertical tasting of ‘ahi nigiri. It makes sense, given the restaurant’s name, which translates to “house of maguro.” Here, you’ll find ‘ahi collar salted and grilled; ‘ahi ribs grilled, fried and simmered; and a maguro teishoku which combines three preparations of ‘ahi—fin-to-tail cooking at its best. But my favorite is the Maguro Iro Iro.

Goro Obara runs Maguro-Ya while his brother, Kazuto, owns Yohei Sushi. Goro’s assistant says, “but Goro is the better-looking one.” Photo: Martha Cheng

During the pandemic, I’ve revisited neighborhood restaurants more—the changed pace these days has given me time to take a break from always chasing the new. And returning to Maguro-Ya has been one of the highlights. The Maguro Iro Iro ($28) sushi combination serves up eight pieces of ‘ahi in the form of toro and chutoro, fatty cuts from or near the belly; scraped rib meat with a bit of green onion and shiso; lean akami slices dipped in a shoyu-based sauce; and ‘ahi collar, one piece lightly torched to bring out the oils in the fish, and two pieces quickly poached, one dabbed with grated daikon and ponzu, the other with a miso vinegar. The last reminds me weirdly (but in a good way) of braised corned beef and mustard, like what you’d eat on St. Paddy’s Day, a testament to the meatiness of tuna. With just one fish in relatively simple preparations, you taste a range of richness and texture. It’s a bit like life in the time of the pandemic—focusing more on life at home and discovering its own pleasurable variations and patterns.

3565 Wai‘alae Ave., (808) 732-3775, maguro-ya.us