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Friday, June 7, 2013

Cotton candy spectacle at Stage

Cotton candy spectacle at Stage

Brie attacks the pineapple cotton candy

Apparently, we’re never too old for cotton candy. Amid three other more sophisticated desserts at Stage—a brown-butter banana tart, chocolate panna cotta, and chocolate ganache with popcorn ice cream—the pineapple cotton candy stole the scene. Have you ever heard four girls squeal all at once? Bring a beehive-tall cotton candy to the table and you will.

Stage’s pastry chef Cainan Sabey, changes the flavors about once a month—blueberry, green apple, watermelon, strawberry and banana have made appearances in the past—and occasionally he’ll make a vanilla bean or li-hing-flavored cotton candy.

In the beginning, the sugar cloud played the supporting role to an ice-cream cake, but, ultimately, "people just wanted cotton candy," Sabey says. It’s simply sugar and flavoring, spun in a machine (Sabey’s on his second cotton-candy machine, having worn out the first one), and yet, at Stage, it still brings out our childlike wonder (or, in Brie’s case, inner monster child).

Not feeling childish? Other desserts at Stage are also worth mentioning (and hold our palate's interest for longer), such as Sabey's ever popular Vietnamese-style coffee flan topped with coconut sorbet and a chocolate crunch.

Stage at the Honolulu Design Center, 237-5429,

Posted on Friday, June 7, 2013 in Permalink

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About This Column

From five-star restaurants to hidden holes-in-the-wall, Biting Commentary will let you know what’s hot and what’s not. Find out the latest restaurant news—who’s opening, who’s closing, which chef is moving on, where the great special dinners are. Discover the best menu items, fabulous wines, stunning cocktails, hand-crafted beers. Be the first to hear about upcoming food events and festivals.

Food editor Martha Cheng graduated from Wellesley College with degrees in Computer Science and English. She's a former line cook, food truck owner, Peace Corps volunteer and Google techie. Follow her on Twitter @marthacheng.


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