Tororo Is a New Izakaya With a 6 to 8 p.m. Happy Hour

If you’re like me, you drove past the former Eastern Paradise on King Street and thought a spa had opened there. The new logo on the window depicts a pretty woman in … a bubble bath, perhaps? But on closer inspection, you can see table and chair legs peeking from behind the menus plastered on the glass.

I didn’t even think to look inside until an acquaintance posted his meals there, labeled #Tororo, three times in a row. “Wow, you must really like it,” I commented, and he encouraged me to check it out.

Tororo turns out to be a new izakaya with a 6 to 8 p.m. happy hour, which is normal dinner hours for everyone else. Owner Shiho Torimoto explained that they get busy after 9 p.m. because they’re already a hangout for food and beverage industry employees unwinding after work.

Tororo is named after Torimoto’s favorite dish of grated mountain yam, or yamaimo, over rice. As with many Japanese words, tororo is also onomatopoeia for the way it feels in your mouth (which I interpret to be smooth and slimy, appealing to us natto and okra lovers).

Photo: Melissa Chang

At Torimoto’s new izakaya, you can have tororo plain or with toppings like ikura, mentaiko, jalapeños, avocado, minced raw tuna and more. I love the simplicity of it, but it’s not for everyone! Another option that my friends like is the yamakake negitoro bowl ($8.75 medium, $15.50 regular), which has a mound of the minced raw tuna atop the white yamaimo and rice. My tororo-loving friends devour the yamaimo and yamakake and leave most of the rice.

Many people will likely come in for the special torotaku chirashi bowl ($9.95), which is minced fatty tuna mixed with nagaimo (Chinese yam), takuan, ikura, nori and green onions over hot rice. This is served with a bowl of miso soup, making it a nice meal. Only 10 are made per day, which adds to the need to come in early. Since I’m trying to cut carbs, I’m totally OK ordering the torotaku by itself ($7.95).

Being a bargain hunter, I have tried everything on the happy hour menu: shoyu ‘ahi with fried won ton chips ($11.95), cold ginger onion shrimp with chips ($7), cold ginger onion shrimp on rice ($7.50), ‘ahi tataki ($13.50) and jaga butter potato ($3). The poke is nice, especially with the spicy mayo on the side, but the overall favorite is the ginger onion shrimp. I don’t know why no one invented this earlier in Hawai‘i. It’s kind of like the best parts of honey walnut shrimp and cold ginger chicken in one dish.

Torimoto recommends the ginger shrimp with chips instead of rice because it’s easier for sharing and more delicious with beer—but really, the whole menu is designed for drinkers.

Photo: Melissa Chang

Another winner is the jaga butter potato, which Torimoto marinates for three days in her special sauce before frying. The marinade’s delicate salt and sugar soak into the potato, and the slightly buttery crust pulls it together.

The menu highlights the ‘ahi tatsutaage ($12.95) as a recommended dish, which I didn’t believe because it looks like a blobby brown mass. But like the potato, looks are deceiving. The ‘ahi nuggets are very moist and super tasty. I’m a believer.

Photo: Melissa Chang

Don’t leave without the pork miso soup ($5.95), which is super rich, smoky and comforting. In fact, if you’ve been drinking a lot, this is probably fantastic for finishing your evening (or nursing your hangover). The only disappointment is that it’s not a larger bowl like the kind you get in Japan izakaya, but I have to remind myself that we are not in Japan.

I’m not much of a drinker anymore, but I couldn’t resist the off-menu gari chu-hi, a cocktail made with the pickled ginger you get at a sushi bar. It’s pretty addictive, sweet and mild with a hint of ginger (even though the glass is full of it).

We always order takoyaki ($11.75) and sushi rolls ($9.50 to $13.75) to round out the meal, which are much more filling than they look. I leave stuffed every time, and I love that I can get a nice meal with friends in Hawai‘i without breaking the bank.

SEE ALSO: Farewell to Eastern Paradise—It’s Closing After Nearly 50 Years on King Street

And now, the big news: Torimoto said that the former owner of Eastern Paradise has promised to teach her to cook any of his dishes. Look forward to that once the new izakaya is settled in.

Photo: Melissa Chang

So what’s with the funny logo? It’s a drawing of Torimoto relaxing in a glass of beer. She has a few other interesting little touches, like her favorite mask on a table when you enter. Without giving too much away, I’d like to encourage the guys to use the men’s restroom as well.

Reservations are highly recommended. Parking is available in the lot behind the restaurant or on the street.

Tuesday to Sunday 6 p.m. to 2 a.m., 1405 S. King St., (808) 810-2166, @tororo_24_hawaii

Melissa Chang is a regular contributor to Frolic Hawai‘i.