Chinatown’s New Thai-Lao Eatery is an Actual Hidden Gem

Photo: Melissa Chang

There’s no shortage of Thai restaurants in Hawai‘i. But as they say in Southeast Asia, “Same same but different!” Saap Rai opened about a month ago inside the iconic O‘ahu Market in Chinatown. Most people don’t know there are a few food stalls hidden behind the butchers facing the street—but those who do have already made Saap Rai a busy place for lunch.

Photo: Aaron Yoshino

Owners Bo and Mang Sisouthone, who run Thai Village restaurant in Waipio and Kunia shopping centers, wanted a casual little shop with ultra fresh ingredients. Though Lao, Mang trained in Thai cooking, which is why the menu is a hybrid of the two.

Photo: Melissa Chang

Of course, most ingredients come daily from vendors around Chinatown. Meats are from Bo’s butcher stall, B&M Meats, just steps away in the market. That’s where he makes 160 to 200 pounds of Lao sausage every other day, and he says sometimes that’s not enough.

Photo: Melissa Chang

I can see why since that is one of our favorite things on the menu. I’ve had Lao sausage before, including in Laos, and you can really tell the difference when you’re eating a fresh sausage. The texture is distinctively more tender, and the meat and spices have a more delicate flavor. The sausage plate comes with one scoop of rice for $16 (if sticky rice, $18). I would probably get it with sticky rice next time, as I’ll want to eat it with the curry.

Photo: Melissa Chang

The Penang curry ($18), made with peanut butter, is another favorite. It’s addictive, and none of us can stop eating it. It’s creamy and aromatic, with an alluring touch of sweetness from the peanut butter. Both owners highly recommend the yellow curry; Penang is their second suggestion.

Photo: Melissa Chang

Another favorite is the nem khao ($18) crispy rice salad. You scoop some of the rice into the accompanying lettuce, sprinkle a couple of mint leaves on top and wrap it up like a mini burrito. The fresh lettuce and mint are a beautiful contrast to the crunchy, slightly salty rice and mildly pungent fermented pork bits throughout. The Sisouthones tell us that on the continent, people are discovering nem khao, and it’s becoming trendy.

Photo: Melissa Chang

I am not inclined to get the pad Thai ($18) because that is at all Thai restaurants. Why not introduce our readers to something else? But the Sisouthones insist that theirs was different—and it is! The noodles come from Chi Kong Look Funn Factory across the street, which means every bite is fresh, silky and bouncy.

I order the pad siew ($18), which are wider look funn noodles with shoyu and a little more tang. If you want spicy, you might opt for the pad kee mow or drunken noodles.

Photo: Melissa Chang

The Lao udon noodles ($18) are made in house and harder to find in Hawai‘i. Since these are rice noodles, the soup has a comforting flavor that reminds us of jook. Cubes of blood cakes garnish the surface; let them know if you’re not into it.

Photo: Melissa Chang

I love the little condiment rack that lets you play with textures and spices on the noodle dishes. More peanuts here, more chile sauce there make for an interactive lunch.

For something different, we order the fried fish fillet ($20). The vinegar dipping sauce it comes with is lovely for any fried item. But the tender, moist fish could go with any sauce on the condiment rack. Or just by itself.

SEE ALSO: Chinatown’s New SingSing Thai Street Food Is a Jangly, Delicious Vibe

No Thai meal is complete without Thai tea or Thai coffee, which are made in house, not canned. If you’re looking for something to wake you up, definitely go with the coffee.

About 10 stools line the counter, so get there early. As for parking, it’s street or municipal parking like anywhere else in Chinatown. And the name: “Saap Rai” doesn’t have a direct translation; it combines two distinct and common Lao and Thai words into a concept of “What’s delicious?” or “Delicious food, no worries.” It’s pretty delicious, so the only thing we’re worried about is getting a seat the next time we go.

Monday, Tuesday and Thursday to Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., 145 N. King St., Chinatown, @saap_rai_honolulu

Melissa Chang is a longtime contributor to Frolic Hawai‘i. @melissa808