Rajanee Thai: a Mililani hole-in-the-wall

A co-worker had me at "soft shell crab over drunken noodles." Only problem: I had to drive to Mililani.

Rajanee Thai is a takeout counter tucked into the backside of Mililani Shopping Center. The only seating—two lone tables—is in the strip mall's shaded hallways. Everything comes in Styrofoam clamshells.

There are the usual Thai dishes such as pad thai and curry (panang, green and yellow); you won't go wrong with any of these, but be warned that "spicy" is actually that. Maybe not "Thai spicy," a searing, tearful affair, but certainly not a whimpery excuse for spicy.

But we didn't drive all the way out to Mililani for the usual Thai suspects. We came for soft shell crab, for battered fish and curry, for ginger salad. The soft shell crab is fried, in the lightest dusting of batter, crunchy and succulent, on a bed of slightly sweet and saucy wide rice noodles. The ginger salad is a slaw made with shredded pickled ginger and peanuts—crunchy, refreshingly tart and piquant.

For Mililani residents like my co-worker, it's a tiny little place "to really get excited about…in an area devoid of any really good food," as she says.

Entrees $9-$13, 95-390 Kuahelani St., Ste 3C, Mililani, 853-4724