Pewa by Pono Potions is Chinatown’s New Bar, Lounge, Bistro and Brunch Spot

Owner Peter Hessler behind the bar. Photo: Mahina Chong

Bethel Street has become this weird paradox boundary to me. It signals where Honolulu’s Downtown financial district starts to blend into Chinatown. Bethel Street is the limit of how far I’m willing to walk from my Downtown office for lunch on most days. Unless I’m going for coffee at Pō‘ai by Pono Potions—then I’ll walk the two more blocks to Smith Street.

If you’ve ever had Pō‘ai’s locally made syrups or craft coffee and matcha specialties, you already know it’s worth the extra steps. Owner Peter Hessler and partner Michael Cabagbag consistently highlight and support local artists and the Hawaiian community. So your girl was thrilled when Pono Potions opened a cocktail bar and lounge on Bethel a few weeks ago.

Photo: Mahina Chong

In the old Du Vin spot, Pewa by Pono Potions is inconspicuous from the outside. Walking in, I’m drawn to displays of blast-from-the-past vintage to modern Hawaiian art, aloha shirts and jewelry. Head through the hanging aloha shirts, and the space opens to a bistro with indoor and covered outdoor seating. This may be my first speakeasy exposure before noon!

The place shape-shifts through the day. For morning-goers, menu options are simple and to the point, with no flashy craft coffee like Pō‘ai. But like Pō‘ai, Pewa offers vegan, gluten-free pastries from ‘Ulu & Kalo Bakery. It’s an easy grab-and-go stop or perfect for people needing a change in their work environment.

At lunch, Pewa is the perfect spot for a break outside the office. The menu, by Hessler and his cousin Jasmyne Wood, formerly of Arden Waikīkī, is small but mighty. It caters to the Downtown crowd with salad and sandwich entrées and a few pūpū like fritto misto and smoked salmon to share. If you’re indecisive like me, the Mediterranean Board ($22) is the surprise variety I didn’t know I was looking for. With baba ghanoush, hummus, crudité and grilled veggies, it more than satisfies my “always looking for options” heart.

Photo: Mahina Chong

Sandwiches like the grilled chicken club show up with enough meat packed in every bite. The classic cheeseburger ($20) stacks not one, but double the patties. We love a good local-size portion! It’s served with thin and crispy shoestring fries and a side of house aioli, and you best believe we dipped all the things in that.

Photo: Mahina Chong

I’m a pushover for Brussel sprouts ($12) and if it’s on the menu, automatic—you’ll find it on my plate. Tossed in a lemon herb vinaigrette, this could be a great meal in itself that I wouldn’t want to share. So much so that I hana hou it for dinner.

Photo: Mahina Chong

If you’re unable to make it in for lunch, most of the menu carries over into the evening, when the atmosphere feels like a pau hana lounge where everyone comes to decompress from a day of adulting. And the menu is more sharable, which gets me curious and wanting to order it all. As my tutu always said, “Your eyes are bigger than your stomach,” and my boyfriend can attest to that.

Photo: Mahina Chong

As I’ve written previously, I have a slight obsession with chicken wings ($18) and Pewa does not disappoint. Coated with a yuzu citrus glaze, this wing gives me pa‘i! I expect a more pronounced citrus taste, but am met with a savory umami. Crispy on the outside with the meat still juicy on the inside is a standard I always hope for.

Photo: Mahina Chong

I order for two like we’re a party of four. The grilled boneless ribeye ($48) comes out medium rare with roasted vegetables and a chimichurri sauce. I’m pleasantly surprised by a local butter lettuce salad ($16) that’s simple with a subtle tangy finish. You best believe I ate the last bite. My local braddah boyfriend, exposed to a new world of cheese preparations, describes the Whipped Chevre skillet ($16) with guava jelly as not too sweet, not too rancid, but juuust right.

SEE ALSO: Chinatown’s Popular Lei Stand Bar Reopens in Waikīkī

Pewa’s local inspired, hand-crafted cocktails are offered all day long and many incorporate Pono Potions. I’m a gin girly, and a good number of creations cater to my floral palate. The Crown Flower’s ($18) calm and complex lychee and pikake flavors carry through every sip. Other fan favorites are Punch Monkey (an old fashioned with a Pewa banana twist, $18), Pō‘ai 75 (with a lil bubbly and cognac, $16) and Hunneh Girl Marg (for the tequila kweens, $16).

Pewa is my new favorite café, bistro, brunch and pau hana lounge. The feeling that you’re stepping into your ‘ohana’s hale is undeniable—every local has one aunty, uncle, cousin or bestie whose place is styled with kuiki quilt pillows or palaka prints with their tutu’s rattan lounge chairs and a Pewa-ish modern twist.

I’m here for it.

Open Tuesday to Friday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday 9 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., 1115 Bethel St., Chinatown, @pewa.ponopotions

Mahina Chong is a longtime contributor to Frolic Hawai‘i. @sooooochang