Michelin-Recognized Okdongsik Returns With Location Near Ala Moana Center
A Seoul-based bastion of restrained Korean cuisine offers more than gomtang soup at its new Sky Honolulu outpost.
Seoul, New York, Los Angeles and … ‘Ewa Beach? It was a peculiar place for a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant to pop up. After expanding outside South Korea in 2018, Okdongsik tested Hawaiian waters in 2023 with its simple dweji gomtang (pork rice soup) and gochuji (fermented pepper paste)—at a golf course in ‘Ewa Beach. It proved to be a success, with people driving from town; the pop-up sold out daily.
Now, Okdongsik occupies an airy, light-filled space on the ground floor of Sky Honolulu on Kapi‘olani Boulevard. It’s a much better fit for an eatery that expresses simple Korean flavors. After a soft opening, the restaurant serves lunch and dinner daily. Frolic was invited to check out the new offerings.
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The dweji gomtang ($18) remains Okdongsik’s main attraction on a menu that’s pared down from what we’re used to at local style Korean restaurants. The gomtang looks nearly identical to the bowl I had almost two years ago at the ‘Ewa pop-up. A traditional bronze bangjja yugi holds rice and thin slips of pork in a clear broth, with side dishes of kim chee and gochuji pepper paste for the pork.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
Previously, the gomtang broth was a mere whisper of flavor diluted with dashi. Today, it’s purely pork, loud and clear, a refined consommé that’s meant to be light and refreshing, as it is on this 85-degree day. The pork serves as a vehicle for the vegetal and slightly spicy gochuji condiment, which you’re told never goes directly into the broth. The pork is now sourced from California instead of Korea, which may also explain a difference in flavor.
Despite the boost, the gomtang is still relatively mild. If you’re craving more oomph, the dweji dupbob ($18), pork over rice or lard donkatsu, might be better options.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
The donkatsu ($21), limited to 40 servings per day, is Korea’s take on fried pork cutlets. On the plate are two loin cutlets with a small mound of cabbage salad and batons of pickled mu radish. Rice and gomtang broth with a black pepper overtone ride sidecar. It’s remarkable that a well-executed katsu like this manages to not be too oily and hold its form from start to finish. The katsu sauce is Worcestershire-forward, with an almost A1 Sauce-like kick, so use it sparingly.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
At the ‘Ewa pop-up, kim chee mandoo was offered as a side, but is missing from this menu. Instead, naeng jeyuk ($10), a slow-cooked and chilled sliced pork side, makes an appearance for summertime. Served with pickled onions and peppers, it’s also enjoyed with the gochuji. Another side dish you’ll want is the ok donggeurangttaeng ($5). One piece of this meaty seafood patty is split per order, but if I were you, I’d order my own. While not crispy, the ground shrimp and pork paste is key to the airy texture.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
On an especially warm day, the kim chee cold noodles ($16) were sold out. With just how delicious everything else is at Okdongsik, it’s at the top of my list for my next visit.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
Spacious and low, the seating is exclusively at the bar counter. Despite the lack of tables, Okdongsik is surprisingly family-friendly. There’s a kid-size gomtang for $10 and a 20% senior citizen discount on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. The restaurant will validate parking in Sky Honolulu; just be sure to ask for the exit ticket when closing out your tab.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
Tuesday to Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday 5 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.; 1388 Kapi‘olani Blvd., Ala Moana, okdongsik.net, @okdongsik.us
Thomas Obungen is the special projects editor of HONOLULU Magazine.
