New Age Kaiseki at Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas

From left: papaya and seared foie gras, kampachi in a saffron-kaffir lime broth, kaffir lime and lemongrass bavarois

It's been more than six months since Hiroshi Fukui left Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas, and the new chefs (some of whom helped open the restaurant in 2004) have been experimenting with new menus and concepts. Earlier this month, John Iha, the executive chef, and pastry chef Cherie Pascua sent out small plates on dim sum carts wheeled through the dining room (an idea popularized by State Bird Provisions in San Francisco). And they introduced $35 prix-fixe menus (available Sundays and Mondays) focused on locally-grown ingredients, such as deep-fried Kauai shrimp on saffron-mentaiko udon.

But to really get a sense of the new cooking, reserve your spot for the New Age Kaiseki, which replaces Fukui's Contemporary Kaiseki dinners. The January debut of the New Age Kaiseki included some great bites, such as braised tako with yuzu kosho and shiso, and marinated papaya over seared foie gras. This month's menu will be nine all-new courses, still being finalized. The dinners are $75, and wine pairings (a must) an additional $25.

$75/$100 with wine, April 29, New Age Kaiseki Dinner at Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas, Call 533-4476 for reservations.