Biting Into Marujuu, the City’s First Sizzling Hamburg Restaurant

Photo: Gregg Hoshida

I’m a longtime anime fan. From Macross in the 1980s to Delicious in Dungeon today, anime has been fundamental to the evolution of who I am. So when anime-themed Marujuu Japanese Hamburg & Steak opened recently in the old Chubbies Burgers space in Kaimukī, I made an immediate beeline.

Marujuu is brought to us by Funergy Group, which also owns other Japanese eateries, including Mō‘ili‘ili’s Izakaya Tori Ton and Totoya, a sushi bowl specialist around the corner on 12th Avenue. Theme songs from anime series play on the sound system and anime posters adorn the walls. If you are lucky enough, you might score a table under your favorite One Piece or Demon Slayer one-sheet.

Overall, the menu is straightforward and customizable. Each hamburger steak—hamburg or hambaagu in Japanese—is made to order and served yoshoku style on a sizzling cast iron plate accompanied by rice, a small serving of spaghetti and grilled vegetables.

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You decide between hamburg, ribeye steak or chicken, then choose a portion size (200 or 300 grams), a sauce and a starch. Sauces go from lighter (grated daikon ponzu or green onion salt marinade) to richer (a signature onion sauce, sweet garlic soy glaze, and a melted gorgonzola cheese). A small menu of sides includes salads, karaage and fries, and a self-service machine offers vanilla or pineapple soft serve ($4.50).

“Marujuu is inspired by Akihabara, Japan,” Funergy owner Tak Tsutsumi tells us. “Our concept is to create a character and atmosphere that can be appreciated across generations—something that resonates with adults who grew up in the 1970s as well as people from the 2000s and beyond.”

After multiple visits, I have to admit it resonates with me. As I eat, I can’t help comparing dishes with shows they seem to embody:

Photo: Gregg Hoshida

Braised Hamburg in Mushroom Demi-Glace Sauce

Anime counterpart: Cowboy Bebop

A smooth and silky dish that embodies Spike Spiegel, giving main character energy from start to finish. The deeply rich, luxurious demi-glace envelops a thick and juicy hamburg. 3, 2, 1, let’s jam. ($24.50)

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Hamburg with Signature Onion Sauce

Anime counterpart: Attack on Titan

Extremely bold flavor comes at you with a rush of salt and deeply caramelized onions, a combo sure to raise your heart rate and blood pressure. I find myself chasing each bite with mouth wide open, shoveling in copious amounts of rice to balance out strong, aggressive flavors. ($23.50)

Photo: Thomas Obungen

Hamburg with Gorgonzola Cheese Sauce

Anime counterpart: One-Punch Man

Like the unassuming Saitama, this one hits you in the face from out of nowhere. The combination of the blue cheese on a rich patty produces an extremely strong flavor will render you speechless from the first bite. Welcome to City Z. ($24.50)

Hamburg with Sweet Garlic Soy Glaze

Anime counterpart: Five Centimeters Per Second

A simple and well-grounded dish with the bittersweet taste of young love. Flavors of caramelized shoyu and garlic will suit those who want to reminisce about their last trip to Japan or yearn for their next one. It is nostalgic—natsukashii. ($24.50)

In the end, the choice is yours on this culinary journey surrounded by otaku-ness. Is your preference for the gentle and grounded, or the bold and outlandish? Choose wisely, it is an adventure either way.

Daily 11 a.m. to 2:45 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m., 1145 12th Ave., Kaimukī, @marujuu_hawaii

Gregg Hoshida is a longtime regular contributor to Frolic Hawai‘i. @oldmanfood