Leila Switches From Moroccan to Italian/Mediterranean Prix Fixe

Photo: Melissa Chang

The dining landscape in Honolulu is constantly evolving—sometimes even within a restaurant’s own walls. Leila, the Moroccan restaurant opened by chefs Mourad Lahlou and Chris Kajioka in Kaimukī last fall, recently made some changes.

First, at the request of regular customers, they turned the front area by the windows into a private dining room. While they were at it, the chefs said, they revamped the menu to better accommodate seasonal items. The result is that Leila’s $75 four-course tasting menu now features Italian-Mediterranean dishes with Japanese influence.

SEE ALSO: Leila Brings a Refined Taste of Morocco to Kaimukī

And like Kajioka and Lahlou’s other Kaimukī restaurant, Miro, the menu will change monthly. So the tasting menu I tried at a hosted meal in June has switched to a new menu for July, but you can get an idea of the new direction at Leila.

Photo: Melissa Chang

We start with some “snacks,” which are optional add-ons. The prawn toast’s two little sandwiches are a cross between Miro’s brioche and the shokupan toasts at 430 Pkwy, the two chefs’ Kaka‘ako cocktail bar, topped with prosciutto. The savory bites offer a delicate butteriness that immediately makes me want a glass of wine. I miss out on tasting the focaccia, served with a choice of Badia a’ Coltibuono honey butter or EVOO and Villa Manodori balsamic.

Photo: Melissa Chang

The first course, a caponata, is a mix of ‘ahi, sweet herbs and capers. This is light and refreshing, and I like the subtle tartness of the capers. I expect the July menu’s scallop crudo with blood orange and serrano peppers will produce a similar effect on the palate.

The second course is chilled corn soup with summer panzanella, which Leila will keep through July. This dish isn’t ready when I go, so instead, we try casoncelli (stuffed fresh pasta that resembles wrapped candy) filled with potato and buttermilk and topped with trout roe. This is usually an optional add-on, but I think we got a better deal! Each bite is rich but fluffy, so you don’t feel heavy as you eat it.

Photo: Kai Wang Nobriga

The third course is agnolotti (like ravioli, but one folded piece instead of two pieces pressed together) stuffed with duck, black truffle and shiitake mushrooms. This is so rich and hearty, I have to double-check the menu description: It really is duck and not beef. The truffle and shiitake aren’t super strong, but impart a definitive umami. (July’s agnolotti is filled with English peas and pancetta.)

Photo: Melissa Chang

The fourth course is beef cheek served with soubise (a creamy onion sauce), kale and balsamic. This is so tender, I could eat it with a spoon (which I do because I somehow lost my utensils and am too lazy to ask for a new set). The July menu features a grilled pork collar glazed in fennel and honey.

Photo: Melissa Chang

Dessert is an optional add-on ($12), which is a good idea because at this point, you may be too full. Of course, we make room in our second stomach because it’s Strauss Family Creamery vanilla soft serve with a choice of toppings: caramel, white balsamic strawberries or EVOO and Maldon salt. The strawberries are an excellent and colorful choice. Plus the fruitiness is a great way to wake up the palate after such a big dinner. If you’re not a big eater, I’d advise you to at least taste your way through the courses, box them up and leave room for dessert, because that is worth it.

Wednesday through Sunday 5 to 9 p.m., 1108 12th Ave., Kaimukī, (808) 888-0884, leilahnl.com, @leila_kaimuki

Melissa Chang is a regular contributor to Frolic Hawai‘i.