After 11 Years as a Brunch Spot, Koko Head Café Debuts Scrumptious New Dinner

I’ve always thought of Koko Head Café as the “it” place for brunch, the one worth the wait that lives up to the hype. It’s also more of a special occasion spot for my budget. So when Frolic is invited to try the recently launched dinner menu, I’m down for it.

Photo: Andrea Lee

The new menu is a collab between executive chef Ben Rosicky, who took the lead on starting up dinner service, and owner-chef Lee Anne Wong. Bar manager Jordan Reynolds came up with the libations, many of which we sample. I don’t drink, so I try the nonalcoholic ‘Olena Tonic, which is like a refreshing turmeric soda and surprisingly not bitter at all.

The dishes we try:

• Mama Wong’s Cucumbers ($12, does not appear to be on the menu currently)
• ‘Ahi Tataki (Seasonal tataki on the menu, market price)
• No Kings Caesar salad ($18)
• ‘Ulu Fried Feta ($22)
• Lapa‘au Farms Mushrooms ($24)
• Fried Jidori Buttah Chicken ($28)
• Pork Belly Lechon ($32)
• Lamb Adobo ($48)
• Garlic Butter Shrimp Dumplings ($24)

Everything is yummy, reaffirming that Koko Head Café does not miss. Every dish hits multiple tastes and textures that layer and harmonize, so each bite becomes a starburst of flavors.

Photo: Andrea Lee

Take the Pork Belly Lechon: Despite its simple name, it comes with foie gras hollandaise, Kula strawberry salad and black garlic molasses. The lechon is melt-in-your-mouth tender with crisped skin, while the deep, rich hollandaise is offset by the bright strawberry salad. The black garlic molasses adds another sticky layer of sweet and savory.

Photo: Andrea Lee

The ‘Ulu Fried Feta kicks the mozzarella stick to the curb. The breading is ultra crunchy yet light from its mix of ‘ulu and rice flour; paired with the springy feta, it’s so satisfying to bite into. A topping of zucchini fennel salad with liliko‘i shallot vinaigrette adds a bit of sweetness and zest.

Photo: Andrea Lee

If you love lamb, as I do, you’ll appreciate the strong flavor of the Lamb Adobo. Chile-braised lamb, from Lopes Farm on Maui, is mixed with queso fresco and pickled onions. Scoop generous dollops onto the ‘ulu flatbread for a crispy, unctuous bite. The accompanying pickled veggies help cut through the richness.

Photo: Andrea Lee

I’m not big on ordering salad, but the No Kings Caesar is unexpectedly addictive. With bok choy, Napa cabbage, shiitake mushrooms, fried ramen, shaved Parmigiano Reggiano and miso anchovy sesame dressing, it’s crunchy and savory. The name of the dish refers to its origin story—popularly believed to be named after the Roman dictator Julius Caesar, it’s actually attributed to Caesar Cardini, an Italian immigrant restaurateur.

Photo: Andrea Lee

Those four are the favorites that I’d definitely order again. Others at the media table sing praises for the Garlic Butter Shrimp Dumplings—filled with plump shrimp, crunchy water chestnuts, cilantro and green onion, the hefty dumplings have a good kick from Mama Wong’s chili munch.

We fill up on our media dinner samplers, but like them so much that we end up digging into the full portion plates we photographed. This feels more like the way these dishes are meant to be enjoyed—passed around the table with lots of conversation.

From left: Bottom of the Bowl, ‘Ulu Vanilla Cruller, Creameaux. Photo: Andrea Lee

Room for dessert? There are three options: Creameaux, ‘Ulu Vanilla Cruller and Bottom of the Bowl. If you can’t choose, I recommend the cruller. Also made with ‘ulu flour, it’s like a lighter, fluffier churro, yet soft enough to fork, and paired with haupia ice cream and coconut flakes.

Photo: Andrea Lee

Dinner is Friday through Monday, and the menu will adjust with seasonal ingredients that come and go. Expect new additions soon with fall around the corner. Mondays are Industry Nights with drink and burger specials, a nod to fellow restaurant workers who usually have Mondays off, though anyone is welcome. Koko Head Café abuts both Kaimukī municipal lots, so parking is easy.

Dinner Friday through Monday 5 to 9 p.m., 1120 12th Ave. #100, Kaimukī, kokoheadcafe.com, @kokoheadcafe

Andrea Lee is the digital editor of HONOLULU Magazine.