Kevin’s Kitchen Is a Hit for Hong Kong-Style Roast Meats and Other Dishes

It’s unusual to find good Chinese restaurants outside of Chinatown, so the secret Hawai‘i Chinese Dinner Society (HICDS) went to investigate the new Kevin’s Kitchen on Beretania Street, next to Times Supermarket.

We have high hopes, as Kevin Lee—the former chef at Harbor View Restaurant in Hawai‘i Kai—is a close friend of owner Kevin Li and his family. Lee helped out with advice and even worked in the kitchen when needed. He’s officially retired, but Lee and his family are loyal customers of Li’s new restaurant.

Photo: Melissa Chang

When you walk in, you will see the roast meat counter at the far end of the restaurant. Master roaster Ping Li (Kevin’s dad) has extensive experience roasting meats back in Hong Kong.

Photo: Melissa Chang

The roast duck with gravy is super juicy, with appropriately sweet and salty fatty skin that crunches and squishes in all the right places. The roast pork on this day is tasty and moist, but the skin isn’t crunchy. When I mention this later, James Li (Kevin’s brother) says it’s improved since then, as all their new equipment has arrived from Hong Kong. So I’m open to giving it another chance.

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Photo: Melissa Chang

Not all the items here are on the official menu. That’s because in true Chinese fashion, we just start yelling items we want to eat, and the waiter obliges. One of these is the bitter melon with beef. We find the bitter melon to be just crunchy enough, a fresh bite that complements the tender beef in black bean sauce. Both times we have it, it’s good, but the second time is distinctly better than the first, so maybe this is due to the new equipment as well.

Photo: Melissa Chang

We are also fans of the sizzling beef with black bean sauce, although the chef is a bit heavy-handed with the salt on that one.

Photo: Melissa Chang

The HICDS unanimously notes that the fried tofu is one of the best things on the table, as it features a delicately crispy skin that is wonderfully salty and contrasts beautifully with the molten soft tofu inside.

Photo: Melissa Chang

Also good is the clay pot oxtail, which comes sizzling in its own black pepper and lemongrass gravy. The big pieces—unusual these days—are ultra tender. I’m very glad to have this on my second visit since I only have to share it with two people.

Photo: Melissa Chang

If you’re feeling spendy, order the crab covered in an exclusive spice blend. It’s not overpowering, and I like scooping it onto some of my other items.

Photo: Melissa Chang

Most Chinese restaurants offer long beans stir-fried with pork, and we like these. The beans are fresh with a slight sweetness, which is perfect with the savory minced pork.

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We are curious about some of the specials, so we order the “full range chicken with wine sauce”—I’m sure they mean free-range—and although it’s moist with a nice flavor, it’s not very saucy. I think it was braised in wine. It’s fine, but you should know that in case you’re expecting something with a wine sauce.

Photo: Melissa Chang

And to demystify what the nondescript Li Yuan house special is, here’s a photo. Essentially, it’s seafood (mostly octopus, squid and dried shrimp) stir-fried with vegetables. It’s good, but again, something you should know what to expect.

The counter serves plate lunches during the day, which seem popular with construction workers. You’ll also find many Chinese-speaking families dining there. Even better, Kevin’s Kitchen is BYOB.

They’re open early—probably to accommodate the construction workers—but the HICDS is hoping they can get enough staff to start serving a proper Hong Kong breakfast. I recommend making reservations and reserving the roast meats you want since they tend to sell out early.

Daily 9 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., 1296 S. Beretania St., (808) 888-3689, @kevinkitchen808

Melissa Chang is a longtime contributor to Frolic Hawai‘i.