Roll With It: Mediterranean Pita Smash Burgers at Kababa Mama
The mashup you didn’t know you needed has two options: falafel or beef and lamb.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
There are few people I can call on a Friday with news about kebab smash burgers whose response I know will be, “Where and when?” Frolic Hawai‘i contributor Gregg Hoshida is on that list. Thankfully he answered my call as I drove around Kaka‘ako searching for the intersection of Waimanu and Queen streets. It’s behind South Shore Market, in case you’re racking your brain.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
That’s where we found Kababa Mama, a new food trailer that just hit the streets a few days ago. A friend posted about its pita smash burgers on her Instagram story, and I had to escalate my investigation to immediate priority.
The Menu
Smash burger meets gyro sandwich? Come on, that’s genius! Sure enough, Kababa Mama scoops balls of a kofta spiced beef and lamb mixture and flattens them onto a hot flattop grill. Sizzle and fanfare ensue. The scent of crisping meat wafts down the street. How could you pass this up?
Photo: Thomas Obungen
In a similar fashion, Kababa Mama also makes a smashed falafel sandwich ($12) with a high-vis green chickpea and parsley mixture. It’s unlike any other falafels I’ve had, which tend to be dry, brownish-green balls, and is good for a lighter lunch. These falafels have more surface area, delivering more on texture without drying out. I thought it could have used a tiny bit of salt or more seasoning to make it pop, but it’s good otherwise. Both sandwiches come with all the requisite toppings: white yogurt sauce, finely diced tomatoes and cucumbers, pickled red onion and crumbles of feta.
We recommend:
Photo: Thomas Obungen
Mama’s Smash Burger ($13) is perfection. The cumin and aromatic spiced beef and lamb mixture has a bit of heat and crisps up nicely with the help of some ghee. The toppings spread evenly with each bite instead of spilling out at the back. If there’s one thing I might add, it’s a line of hot sauce. I’m coming back for this every time.
How It Rolls
The mama at Kebaba Mama is Lana Rudgayzer, a San Franciscan who moved to O‘ahu with kama‘āina husband Jonathan Norton four years ago. After 27 years in tech, Rudgayzer decided earlier this year to try her hand at owning a food business. She started by catering small gatherings while Norton, an industrial designer, built her red cart. He’s also working on a 22-foot trailer that will have a full kitchen so Kababa Mama can serve a full menu, which Rudgayzer says will include more Middle Eastern and Mediterranean delicacies.
Photo: Thomas Obungen
In only its first week of service and with only a small flattop grill, I can tell the food cart has a system down that’s efficient and ready to handle more customers. Although it’s been popping up in Kaka‘ako, the couple are still figuring out where the best spots are and have been trying out different places around the island.
Just like those early food truck days, when you followed your favorites on Twitter, you’ll want to follow Kababa Mama on Instagram for daily location updates.
Where: Around O‘ahu (check Instagram)
When: Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Payment: Cash or card
Follow: @kababamama.hawaii on Instagram
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