FUUD: Roy’s in Hawaii Kai

Last month I was craving meatloaf and a nice glass of wine.

That could only mean one thing: I was going to Roy’s Restaurant in Hawaii Kai.

But I’ll be honest: except for the meatloaf, I’ve been a bit underwhelmed on my last few visits there.

But this time, there was something different. The food was vibrant. The menu seemed reinvigorated. So we asked our server if there was a change in the kitchen.

Sure enough, there was a new executive chef, Chris Garnier. He’s not new to the company — he was busing tables there about 15 years ago — but he was new to the role. And at least to me, it seemed like the restaurant was back to its previous grandeur.

Here’s what we ate:

Spicy edamame

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Unlike other restaurants that deliver filling bread to your table before you order, Roy’s gives you spicy edamame, which, to me, is a refreshing change. Don’t get me wrong, I love my free bread! But edamame isn’t as filling — and just as good.

Roy’s Restaurant, Hawaii Kai, 6600 Kalanianaole Highway. Phone: (808) 396-7697.