First look: Tokkuri Tei’s new digs

By Mari Taketa
Nonstop

6 p.m. last night, Dec. 27. Scent of deep-fried soft shell crab floats down the stairs above Hee Hing. Last time here, this sleek, ginormous space was Ranch House. Before that, Sergio’s Italian. Before that, Sam Choy’s. Now it’s Tokkuri Tei, a Honolulu izakaya institution in its third spot in 21 years.

Let’s pause to take in the cosmic significance. Tokkuri Tei = hole-in-the-wall. Even before it moved into its old location just up Kapahulu — a loud, elbow-to-elbow cubbyhole with boxes stacked outside the bathroom — Tokkuri Tei occupied an even smaller cocoon at the corner of Sheridan and Rycroft.

If it started out quirky on Sheridan, with a menu no one cared if you understood (sushi platters designated only as “Show,” “Chew” and “Joe,” and the explanation for tofu steak: “It’s tofu steak”), Kapahulu turned it eccentric. Placards autographed by celebrities and ordinary customers covered every inch of wall space, and the menus — crumpled Xeroxes in cheap plastic sleeves — now told you under Dessert to “Go next door.”

So what now? A prestige address that’s shiny, sparkly and double the space? Is it still really you, Tokkuri Tei?

Tokkuri Tei
449 Kapahulu Ave.
808-732-6480