The Team Behind Maze’s Prix Fixe Pairings Is Slinging Chicken Sandwiches at New BirdyGo

Photo: Mahina Chong

The award-winning dream team who brought you Maze and Bar Leather Apron just opened their take on a fast-food concept. Downstairs from BLA in Downtown’s Topa Financial Center, BirdyGo is a different vibe and pace from chef Ki Chung, mixologist Justin Park and businessman Tom Park. It’s simple and straightforward with just three mains: Fried Chicken Sandwich, Chicken Tenders and a Snack Box.

Justin Park, Tom Park (no relation) and Ki Chung. Photo: Mahina Chong

BirdyGo combines the surge in chicken sandwiches of a few years ago with a nod to Chung’s Korean roots—what he calls “Nashville hot chicken meets Korean ramyun seasoning.” Chung honed his cooking chops in three-Michelin-star restaurants before opening Maze with the two Parks, plus he’s a James Beard Award semifinalist.

His main dish offerings come in five spice levels from no spice to super hot, and for those with zero heat tolerance, there’s an additional new sweet soy option. Personally, I’m always looking for a sweat-activating, sinus-clearing, mouthwatering heat, and I’m happy to share that super hot delivers a slow creeper burn that sparks excitement in my heartburn heart.

Super hot spice level. Photo: Mahina Chong

At first glance, the Fried Chicken Sandwich ($15.50), a sizable buggah, guarantees I won’t be left hungry, and I’ll kanak after. We’ve heard about American-style fried chicken in barbecue or buffalo sauce, and Korean fried chicken in sweet gochujang glaze, but this … this is new. Fried then dunked in chile oil, every bite of my chicken thigh is crisp and crunchy. The juicy chicken stars, the scallion chile oil doesn’t overpower, and the heat is a slow creep-up that even makes my coworker turn red. It’s topped with cabbage slaw and pickles whose flavors level out the heat you’re unknowingly taking in.

Photo: Mahina Chong

Snack Box ($12) is the only option that comes with fries. The main switches between bite-size chicken or cauliflower—both are winnahz that come with choice of dill-forward paniolo sauce or the creamy, ramyun-reminiscent BirdyGo sauce.

Photo: Mahina Chong

If you’re looking for something heftier, chicken tenders ($8.50 for two pieces, $15.50 for four) are the next level up.

Photo: Mahina Chong

BirdyGo fries ($5) are crispy and jammed with flavor. My boyfriend can’t get enough of this mound seasoned with ramyun seasoning and roasted garlic.

Photo: Mahina Chong

There’s no fouls on non-fowl eaters here. The cauliflower nuggets ($11), a six-piece side dish, are a hit with carnivores and non-meat eaters.

SEE ALSO: All Our Favorite Fried Chicken in Honolulu

If you’ve ever been to the two Parks’ Bar Leather Apron, then you already know that 1) they execute the most complex, thirst-quenching drinks and 2) BLA won the James Beard Award for the country’s Outstanding Bar in 2023. BirdyGo offers an iced tea and a lemonade of the day ($6). The lemonade packs an addictive and refreshing sucker punch to your mouth. A meld of red shiso, kabosu lime and soda, this bestie of a drink helps wash down my super hot chicken sandwich. The iced tea is a lapsang souchong with mandarin, lemon and demerara. This is iced tea 2.0, and I’m hooked after the first smoky sip, while the flavor lingers long after.

Photo: Mahina Chong

BirdyGo will be rotating drinks and side menu items from time to time, so you might see something new or different, like this Mac & Cheese side ($6) with tteokbokki, four cheeses and dashi. For this spice fiend, it’s a little mild and the one item I would pass on.

For my overall taste, though, I can definitely say Birdy, she Go!

Open Wednesday to Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 745 Fort Street Mall #130, Downtown, birdygohnl.com, @birdygohnl

Mahina Chong is a longtime contributor to Frolic Hawai‘i. @sooooochang