Dusty Grable’s Little Plum Opens at Mānoa Marketplace

Photo: Hailey Akau

Growing up in the valley, for me, Mānoa Marketplace was always a destination for afternoon snacks from Kay’s Crackseed or Brug Bakery and takeout dinners from wherever was open. It was just convenient—never the sort of place that excited foodies. For us, going out for dinner always meant driving out of the valley.

That just changed. In my last semester at college in Boston, I was mapping out places to eat when I came home for summer and saw that a new restaurant was coming to the marketplace. Not just any restaurant: Little Plum was a project by Dusty Grable’s new group, and Grable was a co-founder of Lucky Belly. That Chinatown restaurant has some of my favorite modern Asian comfort dishes—and it helped transform the district into a dining destination. How could I resist? Little Plum immediately went on my to-eat list.

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The restaurant opened last week in the old Bank of Hawai‘i space at Mānoa Marketplace. It’s right next to Uncle Paul’s Corner Store, a new gourmet shop by Grable’s restaurant group, Lovers + Fighters. It’s the first of two restaurants the groups plans here—the more upscale, Mediterranean-inspired Lady Elaine should open midsummer.

Little Plum is more casual. Its dark wood accents and minimalist Japanese kimono decor give it a contemporary patina, while the open floor plan gives it a comfortable vibe. As the Beach Boys play over the sound system and food sizzles in the open kitchen, Grable checks in with customers at the tables, making the place feel personal and welcoming.

Photo: Hailey Akau

The one-page menu for now is the same for lunch and dinner: six teishoku sets, seven appetizers and two desserts, plus a keiki teishoku right at the top. In a nod to Mānoa and much of the staff, familiar Japanese and other local Asian themes abound. The drink menu has cocktails by bar director Ku‘ulei Akuna, plus sake, wine and beer.

Small plates and bowls include ume tomato ($11), a daikon and pohole salad ($12), ginger scallion rice ($19) and menchi katsu in mushroom gravy ($26). Start with the chicken karaage bao ($14). Two steamed bao buns hold chicken karaage dressed in Japanese curry and garnished with fukujinzuke pickles and scallions. The chicken’s satisfying, crunchy crust contrasts with the juicy meat. This dish brings the flavors of a classic karaage curry combo in a bite-sized package.

Photo: Mari Taketa

Of the teishoku options I’ve tried, the ‘ahi tataki ($29) is my favorite. These are full meals: Each comes with miso soup, tsukemono or namasu, namul bean sprouts and rice. The perfect sear on the fish, which maintains its rare pink center, is a testament to the attention to detail here. Paired with limu and sea asparagus, the ‘ahi is enhanced by a shishito chile crisp.

Other teishoku feature kim chee rib-eye ($37), a melting beef cheek stew ($29) and mixed tempura ($24).

For cocktails, all $16, I love the Rock Salt Rum made with Kōhana Kea Rum, Angeleno amaro and rock salt plum. If you love the sour-salty kick of crack seed classics, this is the drink for you. Other cocktails include the Breakfast of Champions, featuring rye whiskey, cereal and senbei crackers, and the Same Same But Different, with Uji cha and black sugar umeshu plum wine, Toki whisky and matcha.

Photo: Hailey Akau

If you manage to save room for dessert, good luck choosing between the liliko‘i orange pudding and the mochi churros ($11). The pudding—creamy, light and topped with whipped haupia and toasted coconut—is decadent in every sense. The mochi churros combine the subtly sweet chewiness of mochi with the sugar-dusted crunch of a churro. Each bite delivers the nuttiness of kinako. Actually, I recommend getting both desserts and dipping the churros in the liliko‘i orange pudding.

Photo: Hailey Akau

I’ve been to Little Plum twice in one week. I left absolutely stuffed and excited to tell my family that we no longer need to drive out of the valley for a nice meal. We finally have a place nearby for family dinners, a place to bring friends and out-of-town guests. The marketplace isn’t just about convenience any more—you can stop by for a cocktail, a teishoku or just dessert. I certainly will.

Open Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., 2752 Woodlawn Dr., (808) 888-0330

Photo: Hailey Akau

Hailey Akau just graduated from Emerson College in Boston and is HONOLULU Magazine’s SPJ summer intern. Born and raised on O‘ahu, Hailey spent every school break getting her fill of poke, hurricane popcorn, loco mocos and chicken long rice. She is happy to be home, where the markets always have fresh fish and the food is made with aloha.