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Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Noodle Tuesday: Kiwami Ramen

Clockwise from left: tsukumen with spicy dipping sauce, gyoza, shoyu ramen

When Kiwami Ramen closed in the Waikiki Shopping Plaza about a year ago, noodle fans were left with nowhere to go for tsukemen ramen, in which the noodles and the broth—more of a concentrated dipping sauce—are served separately. But recently, Kiwami reopened on Keeaumoku St., in the short-lived udon shop Tsuku Tsuku Tei.

Will Kiwami succeed where the previous noodle tenant could not? Here's hoping it does: Kiwami's noodles are refreshing in their lightness, as compared to the heartier, pork-forward ramen broths that have been filling the bowls du jour.

The tuskumen ramen comes with cold or warm noodles, a fat, chewy, wavy variety that allows the dipping sauce to cling to its edges. Sauce options: shoyu, shio (salt), and spicy, which is not very. The broth is not meant for drinking straight up: it's salty by itself, but the perfect complement for the noodles.

The shoyu ramen is another popular order at Kiwami: here, the noodles are straighter and thin, the chicken-based shoyu broth clear and subtle, the bowl topped with bamboo shoots, green onions and a thin slice of charsiu—this, a mere garnish, rather than the star of the bowl.

Kiwami Ramen, 641 Keeaumoku St., 955-1122,

Posted on Tuesday, October 29, 2013 in Permalink

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About This Column

From five-star restaurants to hidden holes-in-the-wall, Biting Commentary will let you know what’s hot and what’s not. Find out the latest restaurant news—who’s opening, who’s closing, which chef is moving on, where the great special dinners are. Discover the best menu items, fabulous wines, stunning cocktails, hand-crafted beers. Be the first to hear about upcoming food events and festivals.

Food editor Martha Cheng graduated from Wellesley College with degrees in Computer Science and English. She's a former line cook, food truck owner, Peace Corps volunteer and Google techie. Follow her on Twitter @marthacheng.


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