Eat This Now: Bacon Doughnut Dessert, Morimoto
They call it the Breakfast of Champions, but it's dessert. That sugar-flecked bacon doughnut comes with bacon ice cream, and more.
It's not on the menu, but you need to know about the "Breakfast of Champions" at Morimoto Waikiki.
It's not breakfast, it's dessert. A man's dessert.
Two words will do: bacon doughnut.
Morimoto pastry chef Daniel Skurnich has come up with one of the most satisfying after-dinner treats we've ever wolfed down.
It's a big, sugar-crusted cake doughnut that's better than most cakes. You even get the doughnut hole. Both are filled with savory, smoky bits of Applewood smoked bacon.
That's not enough: There's also bacon ice cream. I've had Gorgonzola ice cream, basil and fennel ice creams. But bacon ice cream is one of the best ideas ever.
Not macho enough for you? How about a few dabs of whiskey gelee that tastes exactly like a sip of Maker's Mark straight up.
And a squiggle of tobacco-infused cream (really, you can just infuse cream with a broken up cigar or loose tobacco, not a cigarette, too many chemicals).
Oh, and some chocolate, a dab of rich velvety chocolate ganache, plus some diced and marinated apple bananas, which didn't seem to belong but tasted fine.
"That dessert just seems to exude testosterone," said an otherwise charming young lady of our acquaintance, as she ordered the tofu cheesecake (?!).
The Breakfast of Champions was even more to fun to eat than to describe, especially since I picked the doughnut up and dabbed it alternately in the ice cream and the ganache. (You'd eat a doughnut with knife and fork?)
There's only one flaw in this dish: It doesn't come with enough bacon ice cream. We ordered another scoop.
Biting Commentary had dropped by Morimoto after another dinner just for this dessert, which a reader had tipped me to via email.
Morimoto is a highly pleasant late-night restaurant setting, especially outside with the fire pits burning. The staff was gracious even though we were there only for dessert and drinks.
The Breakfast of Champions is $12, $4 for the extra scoop of ice cream. If I were you, I'd order the extra scoop at the outset.
Morimoto Waikiki, Waikiki Edition Hotel, 1775 Ala Moana Boulevard, 943-5900, morimotowaikiki.com.