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Monday, April 9, 2012

New Portuguese restaurant: Adega

Don't get the Portuguese bean soup ($5.95) at Adega, the new Portuguese restaurant in town. Aside from being totally unadventurous, it tastes bland and of mushy, canned beans. (Also, Portuguese bean soup is about as Portuguese as a hamburger is German.) You're probably better off at Zippy's.

The steak sandwich ($9.95) makes for a good lunch, with slices of steak, sautéed onions and peppers in a pleasantly soft, yet crusty roll, as does the traditional Bacalhua a Adega ($21.95), a dish of salt cod fillet, rehydrated into silkiness and sautéed with onions and cabbage (though I could probably do without the pool of oil half-an-inch thick).

Items in the lunch buffet ($12.99) can be hit or miss: when we go, it's an under seasoned chicken and mushroom mac and cheese; tasty roast pork, but dried out; and dobrada, a tripe stew. This, surprisingly, turns out to be the best of the spread, relatively tender tripe in a spiced tomato base, hinting at the flavors this kitchen is capable of.

Best part of the meal? Serradura ($2.95) for dessert: sweetened condensed milk lightened with whipped cream, layered with crushed cookies that taste like Nilla wafers. 

1138 Smith St., 312-2212,

Posted on Monday, April 9, 2012 in Permalink

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About This Column

From five-star restaurants to hidden holes-in-the-wall, Biting Commentary will let you know what’s hot and what’s not. Find out the latest restaurant news—who’s opening, who’s closing, which chef is moving on, where the great special dinners are. Discover the best menu items, fabulous wines, stunning cocktails, hand-crafted beers. Be the first to hear about upcoming food events and festivals.

Food editor Martha Cheng graduated from Wellesley College with degrees in Computer Science and English. She's a former line cook, food truck owner, Peace Corps volunteer and Google techie. Follow her on Twitter @marthacheng.


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