Peter Merriman

Peter
Merriman
Chef/owner, Merriman’s, in Waimea, Hawai‘i
Rack of Lamb with Madeira
Mushroom Sauce

All
Photos:Oliver Konig

“Some fat is not bad; lots
of fat is bad,” says Peter Merriman as he put a rack of lamb into a marinade.
“I like to leave that last layer of fat. It helps to keep it moist and it gives
the lamb more flavor.”

 

For
Merriman, moderation and portion size are the keys to healthy eating, so he’s
not afraid to use some oil and a little bit of butter in his mushroom sauce. “A
tablespoon of butter for four people is not much,” says Merriman. “That little
bit of richness will make it satisfying.”

Merriman describes his cooking
as “country style.” “I like to emphasize the natural flavors of the ingredients
versus the technique of the chef,” he says. “Regional ingredients have the freshest
and best flavors and quality. I like to braise and roast rather than sauté, to
spend time developing flavors and turning it into something beautiful.”

Like
many others these days, Merriman has cut down on his carbohydrate intake. “I like
low carb but not low fat. You can still have great flavor and healthy food with
a little fat.”

Rack
of Lamb with Madeira Mushroom Sauce

Serves
four to six

2
racks of lamb
Salt and pepper to taste

Marinade

1
tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine
2
teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon
chopped fresh garlic
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped
fresh thyme

For
the lamb sauce:

1
teaspoon vegetable oil
2 teaspoons chopped shallot
8 fresh shiitake mushrooms,
sliced 1/8-inch thick
1 cup Madeira wine
1 tablespoon butter
Salt and
pepper to taste

Whisk
together the marinade ingredients. Place lamb in a shallow pan or sealable bag.
Pour marinade over lamb, cover or seal and refrigerate until ready to grill (at
least a few hours or up to 24 hours).

Make
sure to grill all the edges of the lamb rack.

Heat
a grill until coals are hot; if using a gas grill, heat over high. Preheat oven
to 350°. Remove lamb from marinade, season with salt and pepper. Sear the racks
of lamb over high heat on the grill; sear all sides so that there are grill marks
on the lamb. When the lamb is seared, place in a roasting pan and into a hot oven.
Cook for about 12 minutes or until desired doneness is achieved (135° for medium
rare). Remove from oven and let stand for several minutes.

In
a small sauté pan, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add shallots
and cook for about one minute, stirring so they do not brown. Add mushrooms and
cook until they begin to soften. Remove from pan.

Immediately
add Madeira to the pan and reduce to about one-third of its original volume. Stir
in butter, blending quickly. Return shallots and mushrooms to pan. Turn off heat.
Season with salt and pepper. Carve lamb into chops, reserving the juices and adding
them to the sauce. Serve lamb alongside salad.

Greens
with Blue Cheese and Green Apple Vinaigrette

Salad
greens of your choice
(see suggestions)
Salt and pepper to taste

Green
apple vinaigrette:

1/2
cup apple juice
1/2 cup champagne or white-wine vinegar
1 teaspoon chopped
shallots
1 teaspoon honey
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1
teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 cup olive oil
2 green apples, cut into 1/4-inch
dice
4 ounces Stilton or other blue-veined cheese

Place
first seven ingredients in a blender and turn blender on. Slowly drizzle in olive
oil and blend well. Pour into a bowl and add apples.

Toss
greens with salt and pepper then toss with dressing. Add crumbled cheese and toss.


Chef
Merriman’s tips:

For
the greens, use a variety of lettuces or a mesclun. Add sliced cucumbers, celery
or radishes. Consider blanched green beans, snap peas, snow peas or asparagus.
Add whole leaves of cilantro and basil to your salad greens for a more interesting
salad.

Racks
of lamb usually come “frenched,” meaning the fat has been trimmed and bones exposed.
There’s usually one last layer of fat remaining, which helps to keep the lamb
moist during cooking.

Cut
rack of lamb into single chops; three chops will do nicely as a serving. If you
are using American rack of lamb, two chops will be an ample serving.

Grilling:
Always start with a hot grill and cook the side you want to present on the plate
first. You can mark (sear) the lamb ahead of time and finish it in the oven just
before serving.