Chef Lance Kosaka of Basalt Introduces Pohole to Waikīkī

Fiddlehead ferns, aka pohole, hō‘i‘o, warabi and pako, are hard to find; now, visitors can get a taste of the locally loved delicacy at Basalt Waikīkī.
Hn2603 Ay Basalt Pohole Salad 6825
Kosaka’s warabi or pohole salad with local cherry tomatoes, red onions and soy-cuttlefish dressing. Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
Hn2603 Ay Basalt Pohole Salad 6733
Chef Lance Kosaka. Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

Pohole, hō‘i‘o, warabi, pako: Whatever you call them, local love for fiddlehead ferns runs deep. Once a staple at lū‘au and potlucks, the curly delicacy has become harder to find. Only a handful of restaurants serve it, in places like Kalihi, Mānoa, Waiāhole and Kaimukī.

 

Now add to that list Basalt, smack in the heart of Waikīkī. “Everybody knows ‘ulu, taro and local tomatoes. Pohole is a little different,” executive chef Lance Kosaka says. “To me, it’s a cross between asparagus and okra, with that nice crunchy texture ​​and a little slime.”

 

Kosaka gets the shoots from Kumuola, a nonprofit that farms them in Mānoa Valley. Warabi salad is far from a bestseller at the ABC Stores-owned restaurant, he says—but it makes locals happy.

 

2255 Kūhiō Ave., Waikīkī, basaltwaikiki.com, @basaltwaikiki

Mari Taketa is the dining editor of HONOLULU Magazine and editor of Frolic Hawai‘i.