In His Words: How Alan Wong Got His Second Chance

Alan Wong’s was a rarity among local restaurants—one of the few to achieve national repute. Bestowed with accolades and favored by Barack Obama, the Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine icon closed in 2020 after 25 years, a victim of the pandemic. This past spring, at age 69, the legendary chef reopened in a new home. We asked him about the rebirth.

As told to Mari Taketa:

It took me at least three months to unwire how I was wired. No more going to work, meetings, training, looking at the financials. I was still 24/7 food, that never stopped. I made copious notes about new ideas. But I didn’t have an outlet. Then I became a consultant to Mugen at Espacio hotel. A former employee of mine was the chef. Colin Sato is very capable, and I was there to advise him, but not about what to put on the plate. I guess the itch started there, because I didn’t step into the kitchen.

I met with the general manager of The Kāhala [Hotel & Resort] and his commercial director. They asked if I’d be interested in taking over Hōkū’s as a tenant (the hotel’s flagship restaurant closed in February). I said no. I didn’t want to own it, because I’d be worried about the electricity, staffing, financials. I said I might think about it as a consultant.

This is what they asked me to do: Bring back the memories. Bring back the classics that everybody’s asking about. As a consultant, I can do that. They have an accounting team and an HR team, and I don’t touch those things anymore, which I’m very happy about. Of course, I worried about the risk. I wondered if I made the right decision, but I was excited and energized.

Initially, it’s my food, my menu, my recipes, my training. We built a team. [General manager] Mark Shishido, he’s been with us over 20 years. Miya Nakashima was not only the chef de cuisine, later she was our R&D chef and helped me open a few restaurants. She’s now our pastry chef. Spencer Yamanaka is the [chef de cuisine], he used to work for us before.

The hotel pretty much let me go, within their framework, to do what I please. Just before you came, I made three dishes and had everyone try it. I’m creating, teaching, sharing. I feel like I’m growing a culture here. Feels good to plant something and watch it grow. Like a garden, you have to tend to it daily. I’m happy with what I’m doing, and people are growing.

I didn’t want my name on it. In this new chapter for me, I’m not chasing media, awards. Without being arrogant, I don’t feel the need anymore. I wake up every morning, the bones are creaky, really creaky. After standing on my feet all day, my hips are creaky, but I look forward to coming to work, teaching something new. I’m energized.

When we closed, I lost the platform of supporting local farmers and businesses. We’re losing the battle [for food sustainability]. We import over 90%. We want our guests to come and taste Hawai‘i—the fruits and vegetables from the land, fish from our oceans, but secondary, the ingredients and flavors that local people grew up eating. Things like lup cheong, kim chee, ‘opihi, things found at home, potlucks, backyard hibachis, are finally making it into mainstream restaurants. That’s part of tasting Hawai‘i. I’m very glad to be able to do that again. Celebrating Hawai‘i, putting our culture and our foods in the spotlight: If I can help do that just a little bit, then I’m doing the job.

5000 Kāhala Ave., Kāhala, kahalaresort.com/dining/alan-wongs

SEE ALSO: Alan Wong’s Opens in The Kāhala Today

Mari Taketa is the dining editor of HONOLULU Magazine and editor of Frolic Hawai‘i.