Chef George Mavrothalassitis is a man who knows his salt. One of his latest picks is Palm Island Premium Black Lava, a black lava salt from Molokai, found at R. Field for around $5.50 a pound. (You can also find the salt pre-packaged at local gourmet and health food stores.) The glossy grains owe their smoky flavor to the minerals and activated charcoal of the lava. Some suggest it as a finishing salt for chicken, potatoes and seafood; Mavro uses it as a condiment with Quenelle of Valrhona Chocolate Bavarois.