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Visiting Big Island? These Eateries From Hilo to Kailua-Kona Are Worth Trying Out

Eating is as big as the great outdoors on the Big Island. Starting in Pāhoa—now in post-eruption recovery—let’s take a counter-clockwise food tour around the island.


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Pāhoa

​The center of Pāhoa town, on the Akeakamai Loop, is a kipuka of restaurants.

 

Kaleo’s Bar and Grill literally rocks when the live music is happening. The kālua wonton and liliko‘i cheesecake are nice bookends to the mahi-mahi BLT. 965-5600.

 

Tin Shack Bakery does jalapeno cheddar sourdough bread very well, also eggs Benedict and wi-fi. 965-9659.

 

Lu’quin serves up old-school Mexican, as in the No. 11 Combination (veggie taco, veggie enchilada, veggie relleno, rice and beans for $12.75); you’d better like melted cheese. And slow service, as can happen in Pāhoa. But don’t let that harsh your mellow. Order a beer and soak up the vibe of a town reprieved from destruction. Tip well. Somebody may make another year because of you.

 

“Top of the world” sums up The Rim at Volcano House. The 95-percent locally sourced menu has steakhouse flair; the hefty Taste of Hawai‘i lunch special is a real deal. If it’s stormy or cool, there’s a roaring fire in the lobby at Uncle George’s Lounge, where you can order a beer and a savory burger. Best of all: breakfast after catching the Jaggar Glow show at dawn (see Outdoors). Volcanoes National Park, 1 Crater Road; 756-9625.

 

Hilo 

Mention you’re going to breakfast in Hilo and you may be drawn into picking between Ken’s Pancake House and Hawaiian Style Café. Don’t bite. Both are worthy. But good breakfasts are everywhere, it seems (like the entire Big Island).

 

Ken’s is 24 hours a day, so it has that late-night Wailana Coffee House vibe: crowded with locals who come for the oxtail stew, macadamia pancakes, sumo loco moco, and liliko‘i milkshake, but also to hone their banter against the seen-it-all expressions of the long-time waitresses. Hawaiian Style Cafe earns online mentions with its massive portions (see the mokosaurus, which includes a chicken cutlet, Spam, kālua pig and the usual loco moco egg and hamburger patty). But the smoked pork omelet has higher aspirations.

 

Ken’s Pancake House (1730 Kamehameha Ave., 935-8711); Hawaiian Style Café (681 Manono St.; 969-9265;  also in Waimea, 65-1290 Kawaihae Road, 885-4295).

 

Of course, Café 100 is the open-air choice of folks who like it quieter and simpler (969 Kilauea Ave., 935-8683). Except simple doesn’t describe the Loco Moco menu, which has 30 variations including Chinese sausage, Kilauea Loco Moco (with kim chee) and of course the Super Moco. You can still get the basic original for $3.50. Sometimes there’s no improving on perfection.

 

If it’s just coffee you’re looking for (with homestyle sandwiches, pastries and other stuff), hit Just Cruisin’ drive-through on Kilauea Avenue. Or settle in at Hilo Shark’s Coffee for a morning affogato. 99 Keawe Street, near the Tsunami Museum on the waterfront.

 

The best intimate brunch is at Paul’s Place. After 25 years working in hotels on the Kona side, Paul Cubio cooks for only three tables. You’re next-door to the farmers market, so the fruit, fish and baked goods taste beyond fresh. 132 Punahoa St., 280-8646.

 

Like Paul Cubio of Paul’s, Moonstruck Patisserie’s Jackie Tan-De Witt is pulling off a personal vision after a long career in four-star hotel hospitality. 16 Furneaux Lane, 933 6868.

 

On a quiet Sunday morning when not a lot was stirring in downtown Hilo, we lucked into the eggs benedict and waffles at homey Bear’s Café (106 Keawe Street, 935-0708), which totally works its bric-a-brac yard sale aesthetic. Next-door’s Conscious Culture Café and Big Island Booch Kombucha draws a hipper (and dreadlockier) clientele for dishes like Brekky Sammy (scrambled eggs with ham, kim chee, and Puna goat cheese). Conscious Culture has kombucha on tap and stresses organic ingredients; the waffle is gluten-free buckwheat. 110 Keawe Street, 498-4779.

 

After the breakfast debate, it’s time to talk okazuya. Instead of yakking about whose tempura goes soggy fastest, split your party in two and order from both Kawamoto Store and Hilo Lunch Shop. Then enjoy the stuff vacation memories, and office debates, are made of. Kawamoto Store opens at 6 a.m.: 784 Kilauea Ave., 935-8209; Hilo Lunch Shop opens at 5:30 a.m.: 421 Kalanikoa St., 935-8273. Hint: go early, as in before breakfast.

           

The sun sets early in Hilo, around 4 p.m., thanks to the looming presence of Mauna Kea. So, instead of watching for the green flash at Hilo Bay Café, which perches high on stilts on the south end of the bay, you watch the shadow line devour the light on the sea—which, as you sip your Ho‘okipa (Hangar One, Solerno blood orange liqueur, papaya, basil, soda), starts looking like one of those fast-motion films run backwards. Or, after the Old Fashion Passion (Knob Creek Rye, liliko‘i, bitters, orange, cherries), like an eclipse. Taking over the space of a Japanese restaurant whose clientele, it’s rumored, aged out, this hipster-moderne bistro dishes up hyper-local fish, pork and beef in French, Japanese and Hawaiian-style preparations; the Hāmākua mushroom curry pot pie ($13) is mandatory. 123 Lihiwai St., 935-4939.

 

The most acclaimed Hilo restaurant in recent years? Moon and Turtle; 51 Kalākaua Street, 961-0599.

 

When you’re on vacation a big busy café in a historic waterfront building, like Café Pesto, can be just the ticket. Grab lunch instead of dinner—the menu’s much more interesting: try the Hāmākua mushroom and artichoke pizza with gorgonzola sauce, the seared ‘ahi poke with spinach, sip a beer, watch the scene. 308 Kamehameha Ave., 969-6640. If you want someplace quieter and funkier, Puka-Puka Kitchen (nearby at 270 Kamehameha Avenue, 933-2121) dishes up sophisticated and fresh dishes that pair Middle Eastern and Hawaiian flavors. 

 

The Hilo Burger Joint brings a loud, cheerful, paniolo style as well as customized, 100-percent grass-fed Big Island hamburgers, complete with professional musicians who call Hilo home. 776 Kilauea Ave., 935-8880. For poke, don’t miss Suisan Fish Market and its foray into guava kim chee ‘ahi and mango habanero ‘ahi. 93 Lihiwai St., 935-9349.

 

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