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Tonkatsu Ginza Bairin

After years of eating tasty tonkatsu out of Stryofoam boxes, we didn’t see the point of paying 20 bucks for it at a restaurant. But Tonkatsu Ginza Bairin, which has an 81-year history in Japan, changed our minds. Chefs start with tender pork loin, coating it in fresh panko and expertly deep-frying it to create a crisp crust while preserving its flavor and juicy texture. Friendly servers show customers how to grind sesame seeds before combining them with the tangy, yet delicate katsu sauce. Oh, yes, katsu can be refined, indeed.

255 Beach Walk, 926-8082, www.pj-world.com/bairin.

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,June