Beachhouse

John Heckathorn

The Beachhouse's stellar interior design. Photo by Monte Costa

Too many steakhouses made me wonder whether Beachhouse was a good idea. After a deal with New York’s greatest restaurateur, Jean-George Vongerichten, fell through, a group of Mainland consultants convinced the new Moana that Beachhouse, its signature restaurant, ought to focus on steak and seafood. (They got paid for coming up with that clichéd of an idea?)

The problem here: When you tell anyone local the Moana has a new steak-and-seafood eatery, they yawn profusely. It sounds like nothing special—a shame, because it is.

First, the Moana hired chef Rodney Uyehara, of the late, lamented Bistro at Century Center. Although Uyehara has a gift for updating classic Continental dishes (osso buco, steak Diane), he doesn’t get to do that at Beachhouse. Still, his presence means Beachhouse’s million-dollar glassed-in display kitchen is in competent hands...