Bookmark and Share Email this page Email Print this page Print

Beachhouse


The Beachhouse's stellar interior design.

Photo by Monte Costa

Too many steakhouses made me wonder whether Beachhouse was a good idea. After a deal with New York’s greatest restaurateur, Jean-George Vongerichten, fell through, a group of Mainland consultants convinced the new Moana that Beachhouse, its signature restaurant, ought to focus on steak and seafood. (They got paid for coming up with that clichéd of an idea?)

The problem here: When you tell anyone local the Moana has a new steak-and-seafood eatery, they yawn profusely. It sounds like nothing special—a shame, because it is.

First, the Moana hired chef Rodney Uyehara, of the late, lamented Bistro at Century Center. Although Uyehara has a gift for updating classic Continental dishes (osso buco, steak Diane), he doesn’t get to do that at Beachhouse. Still, his presence means Beachhouse’s million-dollar glassed-in display kitchen is in competent hands...

ARCHIVED:  Read John Heckathorn's entire review in our "Like Beef?" March 2008 issue.

HONOLULU Magazine invites you to comment on our articles and the issues they raise. Comments are moderated for offensive language, commercial messages and off-topic posts. Some comments may be chosen for inclusion in the magazine on the Feedback page, if name and city are included. Comments are moderated as time allows.

Add your comment:

,June