Atlantis Seafood & Steak

2284 Kalakaua Ave. Suite 201, 922-6868.

I suppose I should have been beyond disappointment by the time I got to Atlantis. Unfortunately, I was hungry, as was the friend who joined me upstairs in the retail complex that replaced the Waikiki 3 Theatre.

Atlantis is all brass and glass. Its best feature is a lanai that allows you to gaze down on vacationers parading along Kalakaua. However, that pleasure was somewhat diminished by the racket of cement mixers building the new Hilo Hattie outlet across the street.

 We were there for a late lunch, but, starving, we were at first grateful the dinner menu was available. However, the blackened ahi nachos turned out not to be nachos. There were a few taro chips bundled up in a ti leaf. But this was mainly a portion of sliced, seared ahi—but not really seared. The fish had been overcooked to medium rare, faint pink in the middle.

This presentation was elaborate, with two sauces, the first a perfectly acceptable salsa fresca, the other a guacamole. Unfortunately, the guacamole had the same uniform color and perfectly homogenous texture as the kind you buy frozen at Costco. We actually were hungry enough to eat it, and to order entrées.

ARCHIVED:  Read John Heckathorn's entire review in our "Dashed Hopes  in Waikiki," May 2007 issue.