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The Surfer Spirit


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photo: John Bilderback

click for larger image

Backdoor might not be as well known as Pipeline, its sister left-breaking wave, but it can be just as treacherous. Even veterans like Perry Dane have their off days at this bone-crushing North Shore break. With the end of the Van's Triple Crown of Surfing last month, you might just be tempted to take on some of the world's most wicked waves yourself. Or you could maintain a nice, safe distance and instead flip through The Surfer Spirit, a collection of surf shots from Surfer Magazine.

The book is by Cynthia Derosier and Tim Anderson (Free Time Productions, 2005, $22.95)

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Honolulu Magazine September 2018
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