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Thursday, March 28, 2013

Lighthouse Deli: A New York Deli on ... Big Island?

A New York-style deli in Hawi, the tiny town in the northern, remote corner of Big Island? Believe. Lighthouse Deli opened about two years ago, in the space formerly occupied by Short 'n' Sweet (make sure to stop by this bakery, now located in Hilo, if you're in the area).

On the menu: a classic Reuben, The New Yorker (corned beef or pastrami topped with coleslaw), and Lighthouse even makes its own pretzels—warm, chewy, butter-glazed, sprinkled with coarse salt and sweetened with brown sugar and molasses. They may not taste like they're from a New York street cart, but they're damn good.

As for the sandwiches, we haven't had ones like these since Brent's in Kailua closed years ago. Fresh bread holds up to piles of warm pastrami and, in the case of the Cuban, what seems like half a pound of meat, in the form of ham and thinly sliced pork roasted in house. (Though I might hold the too-sweet-for-the-sandwich honey mustard.) And since North Hawaii is ranch country, Big Island beef makes appearances in the Classic Dip, with Lighthouse's own roast beef, and in the Meatball Parmesan Hero, doused in tomato sauce. Can we get some of this Honolulu? Please?

Lighthouse Deli, 55-3419 Akoni Pule Hwy, Hawi, Hawaii Island, (808) 889-5757

Posted on Thursday, March 28, 2013 in Permalink

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About This Column

From five-star restaurants to hidden holes-in-the-wall, Biting Commentary will let you know what’s hot and what’s not. Find out the latest restaurant news—who’s opening, who’s closing, which chef is moving on, where the great special dinners are. Discover the best menu items, fabulous wines, stunning cocktails, hand-crafted beers. Be the first to hear about upcoming food events and festivals.

Food editor Martha Cheng graduated from Wellesley College with degrees in Computer Science and English. She's a former line cook, food truck owner, Peace Corps volunteer and Google techie. Follow her on Twitter @marthacheng.


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