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Tonkatsu at Ginza Bairin

Meet the ultimate in luxury tonkatsu. Who knew? The stuff of Japanese cafeterias and local plate lunches, yes. But at Bairin, oh, the heights! Choices at the 86-year-old Tokyo-based chain range from a $19 fillet to a kurobuta loin for $36, the latter served reverently on a sog-proof wire mesh with a bowl of freshly toasted sesame seeds to grate at will into your sauce. 

255 Beachwalk, 926-8082. $19 to $36