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Spicy negihama tartare at Sushi Izakaya Gaku

It’s six years  since Gaku brought sushi prestige to its corner of King Street, and there’s still a nightly line out the door. Here’s one reason: Buttery fresh hamachi, scraped off the bones with spoons, heaped in a small bowl with a quail egg, green onions, bright orange flying fish roe and sesame oil. Splash on some soy sauce, mix, spoon onto sheets of crisp toasted nori. Explosions of texture and all kinds of salty, creamy brine will ensue.

1329 S. King St., 589-1329. $9.50