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Saba Mirin at Rokkaku

The Japanese have  a way of semi-drying fish to seal in the oils, then bringing the flavor bursting back to life with a quick treatment on the grill. Don’t confuse this saba treatment with the raw version atop sushi or the grilled fillet that comes with grated turnip on the side. Saba mirin, which gets its name from its sweet sake marinade, is in a class by itself, and Rokkaku—where the lacquered fish comes piping hot by itself or with an accompaniment of rice and pickles—does it to juicy perfection.

Ala Moana Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., 946-3355. $12