The fattiest part of the tuna, kissed with heat to bring out the richness. Think of this as dessert (fish creme brulee perhaps?) after omakase at Sushi ii, where the fish is as impeccable and the variety as seasonal and interesting as at Gaku (this is where Manabu Kikuchi of Gaku eats on his nights off).
In 655 Keeaumoku St., Suite 109, 942-5350. Market price.