Opakapaka fish sandwich at Paia Fish Market

The bun is nothing special, nor the sparingly dressed coleslaw, nor the tiny gratings of orange cheese—cheddar? Colby? But when a giant slab of freshly grilled opakapaka is laid down, this sandwich becomes the epitome of beach town life. Hawaii is the one spot in the Pacific where opakapaka thrives. Unadorned, seasoned only with a dash of salt and pepper and squeeze of lemon, the delicately flavored fish takes its deserved spotlight.

100 Baldwin Ave., Paia, (808) 579-8030, fishmarketmaui.com. $10