Onaga ratatouille at Chef Mavro

George Mavrothalassitis is a stickler about fish—you’ll never get an overcooked marine creature from his kitchen. For spring 2013, he deconstructed a southern French favorite to create his onaga ratatouille—one perfect square of white topped with a little blanket of diced tomato, eggplant and other ratatouille ingredients suspended in a gel, accompanied by zucchini ribbons and basil essence. Country classic turned sophisticated seafood.

1969 S. King St., 944-4714, chefmavro.com. $85, $128 or $175 tasting menu