The moriawase or “chef’s selection” is a masterpiece at Japengo. Depending on what’s freshest, the sashimi platter may include translucent slivers of hirame (flounder), arranged like petals around a lemon, a tiny madai (true snapper) with its belly delicately fileted, poached local abalone, creamy wedges of uni laid over raw sweet shrimp or achingly red tuna. The artful chef garnishes this bounty with nests of peppery daikon, aromatic shiso leaves, and—a rare treat—fresh wasabi from Hawai‘i Island. Diners grate the watery, spicy root themselves with an elegant sharkskin grater.
At the Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Drive, Kaanapali, (808) 667-4796. $30 small, $60 large