Cumin lamb at Hunan Cuisine

PHoto: Steve Czerniak

Despite the restaurant’s name, Hunan Cuisine rounds up recipes from all over China. Take the cumin lamb, originally from the northwest. It only looks spicy, with the pile of dry-fried red chilies on top—they deliver a mild heat, underscoring the warm cumin spices and tongue-numbing Sichuan peppercorns that define this dish. While most of the menu is down-home style, the use of lamb chops upgrades this dish to first class.

53 N. Beretania St., 599-8838, $18.95