Despite the restaurant’s name, Hunan Cuisine rounds up recipes from all over China. Take the cumin lamb, originally from the northwest. It only looks spicy, with the pile of dry-fried red chilies on top—they deliver a mild heat, underscoring the warm cumin spices and tongue-numbing Sichuan peppercorns that define this dish. While most of the menu is down-home style, the use of lamb chops upgrades this dish to first class.
53 N. Beretania St., 599-8838, $18.95