Another brisket from Big Island? Well, this is ranch country, and in ranch country, there’s barbecue. There are a surprising number of barbecue stands dotted throughout northern Big Island, and while we’ve never been disappointed at any of our serendipitous pit stops, The Fish and the Hog is our favorite. Mainly for the smoky, tender brisket. It doesn’t hew to any barbecue tradition, but it’s uniquely Hawai‘i, served with the house crackseed barbecue sauce, ridiculously addictive, as crackseed is, with li hing mui lending a puckery tartness.
64-957 Mamalahoa Highway, Waimea, (808) 885-6268. $17