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Beef tartare at Duc's Bistro

With its live music, martinis and Vietnamese-French dishes (read: no pho), Duc’s Bistro was hip long before Chinatown was. The cognac-splashed foie gras and Madame Vu’s sugar-dusted ginger-walnut tart will tempt, but the overlooked gem is the beef tartare. Owner Duc Nguyen pairs a fine mince of raw beef with olive oil, two kinds of mustard and red wine vinegar, then mixes in touches of capers, fresh tomato and raw onion at the last minute. The result: an elegant balance of beefy, tangy and fresh, all served with toast points.

1188 Maunakea St., 531-6325. $18